Библия моды Ганн Тим
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Eicher, Joanne B., Sandra Lee Evenson, and Hazel A. Lutz. The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture, and Society, 2nd ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 2000.
English, Bonnie. A Cultural History of Fashion in the Twentieth Century: From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk. New York: Berg, 2007.
Evans, Caroline. Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003.
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France, Kim, and Andrea Linett. The Lucky Shopping Manual: Building and Improving Your Wardrobe Piece by Piece. New York: Gotham Books, 2003.
Fraser, Kennedy. The Fashionable Mind: Reflections on Fashion, 1970–1981. New York: Knopf, 1981.
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Garland, Madge. The Changing Form of Fashion. New York: Praeger, 1971.
Gorsline, Douglas. What People Wore: 1,800 Illustrations from Ancient Times to the Early Twentieth Century. New York: Dover, 1994.
Grant, Linda. The Thoughtful Dresser: The Art of Adornment, the Pleasures of Shopping, and Why Clothes Matter. New York: Scribner, 2010.
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__________. The White T. New York: HarperCollins, HarperStyle, 1996.
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Hartley, Marie, and Joan Ingilby. The Old Hand-Knitters of the Dales. With an Introduction to the Early History of Knitting. Clapham (via Lancaster), Yorkshire: Dalesman, 1951.
Hawes, Elizabeth. Anything but Love: A Complete Digest of the Rules for Feminine Behavior from Birth to Death, Given Out in Print, on Film, and Over the Air, Read, Seen, Listened to Monthly by Some 340,000,000 American Women. New York: Rinehart, 1948.
__________. Fashion Is Spinach. New York: Random House, 1938.
__________. It’s Still Spinach. Boston: Little Brown, 1954.
__________. Men Can Take It. Illustrated by James Thurber. New York: Random House, 1939.
__________. Why Is a Dress? New York: Viking, 1942.
__________. Why Women Cry: Or, Wenches with Wrenches. New York: Reynal & Hitchcock, 1943.
Hazen, Gale Grigg. Fantastic Fit for Every Body: How to Alter Patterns to Flatter Any Figure. New York: Rodale, 1998.
Heimann, Jim, ed. 60s Fashion: Vintage Fashion and Beauty Ads. Cologne: Taschen, 2007.
Heimann, Jim, and Alison A. Nieder. 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads. Cologne: Taschen, 2009.
Herms. How to Wear Your Herms Scarf. Paris: Herms, 1994.
Hilfiger, Tommy. All American. New York: Universe, 1997.
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Modern Dress. New York: Kodansha International, 1994.
Jackson, Carole. Color Me Beautiful: Discover Your Natural Beauty Through the Colors That Make You Look Great and Feel Fabulous. Washington, DC: Acropolis Books, 1980.
Johnson, Anna. Handbags: The Power of the Purse. New York: Workman, 2002.
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Kamitsis, Lydia. Vionnet. Paris: Assouline, 1996.
Kehe, John. “Michael Jackson’s Famous Glove: Where It All Started.” The Christian Science Monitor (June 26, 2009), www.csmonitor.com/USA/2009/0626/p02s19-usgn.html.
Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s. London: Hamlyn, 1998.
Khan, Urmee. “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress.” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/Liz-Hurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html.
Kidwell, Claudia B., and Margaret C. Christman. Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1974.
Kiewe, Heinz Edgar. The Sacred History of Knitting. Oxford: Art Needlework Industries, 1967.
Kneitel, Ken, Bill Maloney, and Andrea Quinn. The Great American T-Shirt. New York: New American Library, 1976.
Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, eds. Chanel. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005.
Kolodny, Rosalie. Fashion Design for Moderns. New York: Fairchild, 1968.
Kunzle, David. Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing, and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West. Totowa, NJ: Rowman and Littlefield, 1982.
Lalli, Nina. “Checkered Past: Arafat’s Trademark Scarf Is Now Military Chic.” Village Voice (February 15, 2005), www.villagevoice.com/2005–02–15/nyc-life/checkered-past/.
Langner, Lawrence. The Importance of Wearing Clothes. Introduction by James Laver. New York: Hastings House, 1959.
Laver, James. Costume. London: Cassell, 1963.
__________. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002.
__________. Costume Through the Ages: 1000 Illustrations. Illustrated by Erhard Klepper. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1963.
__________. Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today. London: George G. Harrap, 1937.
Lee, Sarah Tomerlin, ed. American Fashion: The Life and Lines of Adrian, Mainbocher, McCardell, Norell, Trigre. New York: Quadrangle, 1975.
Leibowitz, Elissa. “The ‘In’ Shirt with the Outr Name.” The Washington Post (January 29, 2009).
Lerner, Maura. “The Observatory: Study Shows How We Suffer for Fashion.” The Star-Tribune (February 9, 2000).
Leventon, Melissa. What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society. New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008.
Lewis, Jeremy, ed. Garmento, Issue 1 (2010).
Lurie, Alison. The Language of Clothes. New York: Henry Holt, 2000.
Macdonald, Anne L. No Idle Hands: The Social History of American Knitting. New York: Ballantine Books, 1988.
Malcolm, Trisha, ed. Vogue Knitting: Designer Knits. New York: Butterick, 1998.
Martin, Richard. AmericanIngenuity: Sportswear, 1930s–1970s. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1998.
Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda. Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century. New York: Rizzoli, 1989.
McCardell, Claire. What Shall I Wear? The What, Where, When and How Much of Fashion. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1956.
McDowell, Colin. The Literary Companion to Fashion. London: Sinclair-Stevenson, 1995.
__________. McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall, 1985.
McNeil, Peter, ed. Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. 4 vols. Oxford and New York: Berg, 2009.
Memoirs and Interesting Adventures of an Embroidered Waistcoat. London: printed for and sold by J. Brooke, at the Golden Head, under St. Dunstan’s Church, Fleet-Street, 1751.
Milbank, Caroline Rennolds. New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1989.
Mullin, Wendy. Built by Wendy Dresses: The Sew U Guide to Making a Girl’s Best Frock. New York: Potter Craft, 2010.
Nickel, Helmut, ed. Arms & Armor from the Permanent Collection. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1991.
Nordin, Kendra. “Smiley Face: How an In-house Campaign Became a Global Icon.” The Christian Science Monitor (October 4, 2006), www.csmonitor
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O’Hara, Georgina. The Encyclopedia of Fashion. Introduction by Carrie Donovan. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1986.
Peacock, John. The Chronicle of Western Fashion: From Ancient Times to the Present Day. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1991.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1920s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1930s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1940s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1950s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1960s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1970s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
__________. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1980s. London: Thames & Hudson, 1998.
Pendergast, Sara, and Tom Pendergast. Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages. Edited by Sarah Hermsen. 5 vols. Detroit: UXL, 2003–2004.
Peres, Daniel, and the Editors of Details. Details Men’s Style Manual: The Ultimate Guide for Making Your Clothes Work for You. New York: Gotham Books, 2007.
Perry, Imani. “‘Malcolm X,’ by Manning Marable.” San Francisco Chronicle (April 24, 2011), www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/04/23/RV611J2B0B.DTL.
Poiret, Paul. King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret. Translated by Stephen Haden Guest. London: V&A Publishing, 2009.
Potvin, John, ed. The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800–2007. New York: Routledge, 2009.
Purdy, Daniel Leonhard, ed. The Rise of Fashion: A Reader. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2004.
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Selbie, Robert. The Anatomy of Costume. New York: Crescent Books, 1977.
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__________. Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Vol. 2: Fads to Nylon. Farmington Hills, MI: Thompson Gale, 2005.
__________. Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1997.
__________. The Impossible Collection of Fashion. New York: Assouline, 2011.
Stegemeyer, Anne. Who’s Who in Fashion. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988.
Sullivan, James. Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon. New York: Gotham Books, 2006.
Tatar, Steven, with Denise Grollmus. The Ohio Knitting Mills Knitting Book: 26 Patterns Celebrating Four Decades of American Sweater Style. New York: Artisan, 2010.
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Tonello, Michael. Bringing Home the Birkin: My Life in Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag. New York: William Morrow, 2008.
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Tosa, Marco. Evening Dresses 1900–1940. Translated by Carolyn Cotchett. The Twentieth Century: Histories of Fashion. Modena, Italy: Zanfi Editori, 1988.
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Vaughan, Hal. Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War. New York: Knopf, 2011.
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Werle, Simone. 50 Fashion Designers You Should Know. Munich: Prestel, 2010.
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__________. Young Faces in Fashion. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1956.
Yohannan, Kohle, and Nancy Nolf. Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism. Foreword by Dorothy Twining Globus. Introduction by Valerie Steele. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1998.
We love museums, and went to several fashion exhibits that were especially inspiring:
American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. Visited August 2010.
Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt. Philadelphia: Franklin Institute. Visited December 2010.
Illuminating Fashion. New York: Pierpont Morgan Library. Visited June 2011.
The Master of Blue Jeans. New York: Didier Aaon Gallery. Visited January 2011.
Savage Beauty: Alexander McQueen. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. Visited July 2011.
Sporting Life. New York: the Museum at FIT. Visited August 2011.
Благодарности
За профессиональную помощь и за то, что вы такие замечательные: Питеру Стейнбергу, Марше Тонкинс и Джонатану Суодену. За то, что превратили процесс издания в радость: всем в «Гэллери Букс», включая Луиз Берк; Йену Бергстрому; Йену Робинсону; Джин Энн Роуз; Алексу Льюису; Лизе Литуок; Крису Серджио; Джейме Путорти; Крису Тобиассену; и в особенности нашему великолепному редактору Тришну Бочковскому; а также Грегу Кирмсеру за безупречный поиск фотоматериалов. За интенсивный курс по истории моды: всем в Нью-Йоркской публичной библиотеке, в особенности Клейтону Киркингу и Джею Барксдейлу. В Вертхаймском зале библиотеки было очень приятно работать, даже когда на меня шикали за то, что шептался. Особую благодарность я хочу выразить всем специалистам по части моды и авторам, с которыми мы советовались лично или чьи работы читали.
Иллюстрации
Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun (1779)/Palace of Versailles; Apeda Studio, NYPL, isadora_0011vb; Everett Collection; PP238.11.007, courtesy of the Maryland Historical Society; Everett Collection; Mary Evans/National Magazine Company/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Michael Cali/Rex Features/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Eliot Elisofon/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Everett Collection; © Universal/Everett Collection; Jason Smith/Everett Collection; Matthew Diffee/The New Yorker/Conde Nast; Frank Micelotta/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Walker Evans/E verett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Bain Collection, Library of Congress; “Grandma + My Dad” © sflovestory/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Albert Edwin Roberts, Queensland Museum; Everett Collection; © Miramax/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/Peter & Dawn Cope Collection/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Gift of Diana S. Field; JACQUES DEMARTHON/AFP/Getty Images; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; Mirrowpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; David Longendyke/Everett Collection; Tim Boxer/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; CSU Archives/Everett Collection. Mirek Towski/DMI/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images; © 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Gianni Dagli Orti/The Art Archive at Art Resource; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; AISA/Everett Collection; Marcus Gheeraerts, National Portrait Gallery; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; (внизу) Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Royal Collection, Belgium; Prints & Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62–72813; Images of Empire/Universal Images Group via Getty Images; The National Archives; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Mrs. Emmet Whitlock; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Diana S. Field; The Philadelphia Museum of Art/Art Resourceс. Everett Collection; Richard Young/Rex USA/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © Aaron Spelling Prod./Everett Collection; © Paramount/Everett Collection; Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic/Getty Images; Everett Collection; (вверху) Curt Gunther/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; (внизу) Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Josiah Wedgwood and Sons Ltd., 18th century/Indianapolis Museum of Art; Horatio Hale, Musee de Seminaire, Quebec; Uranometria (1661), Courtesy of the United States Naval Observatory Library; Superstock/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Dee Cercone/Everett Collection; Jean-Marc Nattier, Former Crown Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos; Higgins Armory Museum; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Superstock/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Salome Receives the Head of John the Baptist by Caravaggio, National Gallery, London; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Jeff Vespa/WireImage/Getty Images; Print by Robert Dighton, 1805; Mary Evans/APL/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; CSU Archives/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; © Universal Television/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/APL/Everett Collection; Liu Weibing/© Xinhua/Photoshot/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © Illustrated London News Ltd/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; David Jackson, V&A Museum; © Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Jean-Etienne Liotard, Musee d’Art et d’Histoire; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; S Gaboury/DMI/Rex Features/Everett Collection; BATA Shoe Museum; manuscript of Renaud de Montauban, 15th century; Museum fur Angewandte Kunst; “Flip-Flops Between Baltimore and Washington” © 2006 Betsy/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Everett Collection; “Spanish Oldtimers” © 2006 David/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; “A Guy on a Bike Wearing Spandex” © 2009 Ed Yourdon/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Everett Collection; Maximillion/Everett Collection; Harper’s magazine, 1858; Everett Collection; Bain Collection, Library of Congress, LC-B2-2801–11; Everett Collection; Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/Amblin/Univeral/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; © 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; Bertram von Minden/Buxtehude Altar, 1400–1410; Robert Doisneau/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images; Fox Photos/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Everett Collection; David Fenton/Archive Photos/Getty Images; Everett Collection; © Carsey-Werner/Everett Collection; Stephen Boitano/Everett Collection; Roger Sargent/Rex Features/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh (1554–1618) 1588 (oil on panel), English school (16th century)/private collection/The Bridgeman Art Library; Richard Young/Rex USA/Everett Collection; John Pellino, U.S. Army; Rex USA/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Photoshot/Everett Collection; Gregorio T. Binuya/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Brian Rasic/Rex USA/Everett Collection; U.S. Federal Government; David F. Barry, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62–21207; Everett Collection; Charles L. Johnson, Queen of Fashion Waltzes. Kansas City, MO: Johnson Pub. Co., 1911; Fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Palazzo Pubblico; John Oxley Library, State Library of Queensland; CSU Archives/Everett Collection; U.S. Federal Government; © Universal Pictures/Everett Collection; Archduke Ferdinand II by Francesco Terzio, Kunsthistorisches Museum; Howard Sochurek/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Monika Graff/Getty Images News/Getty Images; American Folk Art Museum; courtesy of the Ladybug Collection; Frank Masi/© Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images; Mary Evans/MGM/BRIDGE/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Joel Productions and Paramount Pictures
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