Парфюм. История ароматов XX века Остром Лиззи

AMOUR AMOUR; QUE SAIS-JE?; ADIEU SAGESSE

«The Cult of the Nose», Vogue, American edition, 15 May 1925.

«Perfumes and Personality», Arts and Decoration, June 1925.

TUTANKHAMON PHARAOH SCENT

Подробный отчет о египтомании: Bob Brier, Egyptomania: Our Three Thousand Year Obsession with the Land of the Pharaohs, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.

Dudley S. Corlett, «The Kohl Pots of Egypt», Vogue, American edition, 1 September 1923.

Clara E. Laughlin, So Youre Going to the Mediterranean! And if I Were Going with You These Are the Things Id Invite You to Do, Houghton Mifflin Company, 1935.

HUILE DE CHALDE

О загаре как стильной новинке в 1920-е годы: Alys Eve Weinbaum et al. (eds), The Modern Girl Around the World: Consumption, Modernity, and Globalization, Duke University Press, 2008.

Цитата о сцене в Довиле: «Deauville Diversions (Being the Musings of Miranda)», The Sketch, 2 August 1922 and 30 August 1922.

ZIBELINE

Статистика популярности мехов в этот период: Carol Dyhouse: «Skin Deep: The Fall of Fur», History Today, 22 February 2012.

Об истории одежды из меха: Chantal Nadeau, Fur Nation: From the Beaver to Brigitte Bardot, Routledge, 2001.

Dodie Smith, I Capture the Castle, William Heinemann, 1948.

C.S. Lewis, The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe, Geoffrey Bles, 1950.

Грозные тридцатые: 1930–1939

Basinger, Jeanine, The Star Machine, Vintage, 2009.

Gardiner, Juliet, The Thirties: An Intimate History, HarperPress, 2011.

Horwood, Catherine, Keeping Up Appearances: Fashion and Class Between the Wars, The History Press, 2011.

Mcdonald, Paul, The Star System: Hollywoods Production of Popular Identities, Columbia University Press, 2001.

Pugh, Martin, We Danced All Night: A Social History of Britain Between the Wars, Vintage, 2009.

Об использовании парфюма в психотерапии: «Nightmare Routed by

Music, Perfume», New York Times, 17 May 1935.

Реклама из Time, 17 May 1937.

«Beauty Notes from Paris», Harpers Bazaar, UK edition, March 1937.

О стиле жизни дебютантки: Anne de Courcy, 1939: The Last Season, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2012; Lucinda Gosling, Debutantes and the London Season, Shire Publications, 2013.

The Queen, c. 1936 (issue unknown).

Edith Sitwell, Harpers Bazaar, UK edition, c. 1936 (issue unknown).

SKIN BRACER

Mennen advertisement for Skin Bracer, featured in LIFE, 8 October 1945.

Об использовании товара во время Корейской войны: Robert W. Black, A Ranger Born: A Memoir of Combat and Valor from Korea to Vietnam, Random House Publishing Group, 2007.

SCANDAL

О парфюмерных диспенсерах: Kerry Segrave, Vending Machines: An American Social History, McFarland & Co., 2002.

О судебном иске Guerlain к тем, кто переливал парфюм в другие флаконы: https://casetext.com/case/Guerlain-inc-v-woolworth-co-1, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

VOL DE NUIT

О первых перелетах: Tom D. Crouch, Wings: A History of Aviation from Kites to the Space Age, Norton, 2004.

О романе, который вдохновил Guerlain на создание парфюма: Antoine de Saint-Exupry, Vol de Nuit, Gallimard, 1931.

Elizabeth Bowen, To the North, Penguin, 1932.

TWEED

Об истории Harris Tweed: Francis G. Thompson, Harris Tweed: The Story of a Hebridean Industry, A.M. Kelley, 1968.

«Rustic Cloth Goes to Night Clubs», LIFE, 17 October 1939.

BLUE GRASS

О бизнесе Элизабет Арден и о том, как Blue Grass использовали в конюшнях: Lindy Woodhead, War Paint, Madame Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden: Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry, Virago, 2012.

О дизайне СПА-курорта Maine Chance: Victoria Sherrow, For AppearanceSake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming, The Oryx Press, 2001.

«Getting Away From It All», Vogue, American edition, 15 May 1933.

«Give Yourself the Maine Chance», Vogue, American edition, 15 April 1937.

FLEURS DE ROCAILLE

Caron Corporation v. R.K.O. Radio Pictures, Inc., 28 N.Y.S. 2d 1020 (N.Y. App. Div. 1941).

Отчет об иске Caron к студии R.K.O. из-за использования Fleurs de Rocaille в фильме «Путь Примроуз» (Primrose Path), see: Variety, 27 March 1940.

SHOCKING

Об Эльзе Скьяпарелли, ее жизни и модном доме: Elsa Schiaparelli, Shocking Life: The Autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli, J.J. Dent & Sons Ltd, 954; Patricia Volk, The Art of Being a Woman: My Mother, Schiaparelli, and Me, Hutchinson, 2013; Judith Watt, Vogue on: Elsa Schiaparelli, Quadrille, 2012.

Jean Cocteau, “From Worth to Alix”, Harpers Bazaar, March 1937.

OLD SPICE

Об истории Shulton и товаров Old Spice для коллекционирования: http://www.oldspicecollectibles.com/, посещение 29 апреля 2015 г.

COLONY

О парфюмерном коктейль-баре Жана Пату: http://jeanpatouperfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/cocktail-by-jean-patou-c1931. html, посещение 29 апреля 2015 г.

Mrs James Rodney, «To and Fro», Harpers Bazaar, January 1937.

Peter Fleming, “Cameras Over Cathay”, Harper’s Bazaar, June 1937.

ALPONA

Об истории катания на лыжах и лыжных курортов: Roland Huntford, Two Planks and a Passion, Bloomsbury Continuum, 2013.

Лыжная мода 1930-х годов описана в: Jenny De Gex, The Art of Skiing: Vintage Posters from the Golden Age of Winter Sport, Universe, 2006.

Об истории Солнечной долины в Айдахо: E. John B. Allen, From Skisport to Skiing: One Hundred Years of an American Sport, 1840–1940, University of Massachusetts Press, 1993; Wendolyn Holland, Sun Valley: An Extraordinary History, The Idaho Press, 1998; Van Gordon Sauter, The Sun Valley Story, Mandala Media LLC, 2011.

Непокорные сороковые: 1940–1949

Calder, Angus, The Peoples War: Britain, 1939—45, Jonathan Cape, 1969.

Dillon, Steven, Wolf-Women and Phantom Ladies: Female Desire in 1940s US Culture, State University of New York, 2015.

Dirix, Emmanuelle, 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook, Carlton Books, 2014.

Rose, Sonya O., Which Peoples War?: National Identity and Citizenship in Wartime Britain, 1939–1945, Oxford University Press, 2003.

Summers, Julie, Fashion on the Ration: Style in the Second World War, Profile, 2015.

Veillon, Dominique, Fashion Under the Occupation, trans. Miriam Kochan, Berg, 2002.

Daphne du Maurier, Rebecca, Victor Gollancz, 1938.

Eric Baume, “Perfume”, Britannia and Eve magazine, October 1943.

CHANTILLY

О романтической прозе: Jennifer McKnight-Trontz, The Look of Love: The Art of the Romance Novel, Princeton Architectural Press, 2002; Tania Modleski, Loving with a Vengeance: Mass-Produced Fantasies for Women, 2nd edn, Routledge, 2007.

DRI-PERFUME

О черном рынке и контрабанде: «Lifetime Perfume Proved Short-Lived», New York Times, 21 November 1944.

Ответы на вопросы о дефиците парфюма: «Perfume???», Vogue, American

edition, November 1942.

О повышении спроса на парфюм в США: «Shoppers Here Breaking Sales Records, With All Types of Goods in Heavy Demand», New York Times, 16 December 1944.

О переговорах по поводу снятия блокады: «Release is Sought of Perfume Bases», New York Times, 9 June 1941.

Martha Parker, «Beauty: New Perfumes», New York Times, 28 February 1943.

О попытках выращивания парфюмерного сырья в США: «U.S. Is Developing Oils For Perfume», New York Times, 11 April 1942.

О популярности саше: “Powder Perfumes Gain in Popularity”, New York Times, 31 May 1944; “Dry Perfume”, Tide: The Newsmagazine of Advertising and Marketing, 15 August 1944.

FEMME

О создании парфюма Femme: Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, Michael Edwards & Co., 1996.

О мастерской Rochas в послевоенные годы: Alice K. Perkins, Paris

Couturiers and Milliners, Fairchild Publications, 1949.

WHITE SHOULDERS

Herman De Bachelle Seebold, Old Louisiana Plantation Homes and Family Trees, Pelican Press, 1941.

Tennessee Williams, A Streetcar Named Desire, New Directions, 1947.

BLACK SATIN

История Грэнвилла и Свортаута: Percy Knauth, “How to Sell a Smell”, LIFE, 4 December 1950.

Об автомобиле, разбрызгивавшем ароматы Angelique: Bett Adams, «Black Satin’s Coming!» The Miami News, 2 February 1952.

О переезде Свортаута на Виргинские острова: «Swartouts Retire to V.I.», Sunday Herald, 29 September 1957.

О проблемах фирмы с налоговым ведомством: «Took Whiff of Stock: SEC Got on Scent of Perfume Maker», Sunday Herald, 3 May 1959.

OH!

О рекламной стратегии Клода Марсана: «Speaking of Pictures… Frenchman Demonstrates Correct Way to Make Love», LIFE, 20 January 1947.

Некоторые письма читательниц Клоду Марсану: LIFE, 10 February 1947.

О том, как мужчины вынуждали Клода Марсана покинуть город: «Texans World’s Worst Lovers? Unwed Frenchman Says We Are», El Paso Herald-Post, 29 August 1947.

Об аресте Клода Марсана: «Police Disrupt Love Class, Hold Teacher», The Salt Lake Tribune, 21 November 1948.

«Expert» Asserts Love is Relative», The Monroe News-Star, 4 February 1949.

Claude Marsan’s response to the verdict: “Letters to the Editors”, LIFE, 21 February 1949.

ST JOHN’S BAY RUM

Корпоративная история Bay Rum: http://www.stjohnsbayrum.com/pages/three-generations-of-st-johns-bay-rum, accessed 1 May 2015.

Мнения о влиянии «сухого закона» на экспорт: «West Indies Welcome Rum Trade Revival», The Literary Digest, 17 February 1934; Ray Lyman Wilbur and William Atherton Du Puy, Conservation in the Department of the Interior, United States Government Printing Office, 1931; Modification or Repeal of National Prohibition: Hearings, Seventy-Second Congress, First Session, 2 Volumes, US Government Print Office, 1932.

Оригинальная упаковка Уэбба для Bay Rum была запатентована после иска к конкуренту в 1962 году: The Virgin Islands Daily News, 3 July 1962.

MA GRIFFE

Обсуждение потребностей молодежи и зарождающейся подростковой культуры: Maureen Daly (ed.), Profile of Youth: By Members of the Staff of the LadiesHome Journal, Lippincott, 1951.

L’AIR DU TEMPS

Virginia Pope, «New Perfume has Impressive Debut», New York Times, 28 March 1945.

О создании L’Air du Temps и влиянии аромата на другие парфюмы: Robert R. Calkin and J. Stephan Jellinek, Perfumery: Practice and Principles, John Wiley & Sons, 1994.

FRACAS

О роковой женщине в «черных» фильмах: Julie Grossman, Rethinking the Femme Fatale in Film Noir: Ready for Her Close-Up, Palgrave Macmillan, 2009; William Luhr, Film Noir, Wiley-Blackwell, 2012; Alain Silver et al. (eds), Film Noir: The Encyclopedia, 4th edn, Gerald Duckworth & Co., 2010.

Billy Wilder and Raymond Chandler (screenplay), Double Indemnity, Paramount Pictures, 1944.

О парфюме в детективах о Филипе Марлоу: Raymond Chandler, The Big Sleep, Alfred A. Knopf, 1939; Raymond Chandler, The Lady in the Lake, Alfred A. Knopf, 1943.

Элегантные пятидесятые: 1950–1959

Abrams, Nathan, and Hughes, Julie, Containing America: Cultural Production and Consumption in 50s America, Bloomsbury Academic, 2005.

Jones, Darryl et al. (eds), It Came from the 1950s! Popular Culture, Popular Anxieties, Palgrave Macmillan, 2011.

Mort, Frank, Capital Affairs: London and the Making of the Permissive Society, Yale University Press, 2010.

Palmer, Alexandra, Couture and Commerce: The Transatlantic Fashion Trade in the 1950s, University of British Columbia Press, 2001.

Reed, Paula, Fifty Fashion Looks that Changed the 1950s, Conran, 2012.

Spigel, Lynn, Welcome to the Dreamhouse: Popular Media and Postwar Suburbs, Duke University Press, 2001.

О росте расходов на рекламу: http://adage.com/article/adageencyclopedia/history-1950s/98701/, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

The Economist, 21 April 1956, cited in Elizabeth Wilson, Women and the Welfare State, Routledge, 2002.

WIND SONG

Реклама парфюмов Prince Matchabelli в Spokane Daily Chronicle, 20 December 1957.

JOLIE MADAME

«Glove Etiquette, compliments of Paris Gloves», at: http://www.retrowaste.com/1950s/fashion-in-the-1950s/1950s-gloves-etiquette-styles-trendspictures/, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons, Cassell, 1964.

YOUTH DEW

О росте пригородов в Америке в 1950-е годы: Dianne Harris, Second Suburb: Levittown, Pennsylvania, University of Pittsburgh Press, 2010.

О бытовой технике 1950-х годов: Diane Boucher, The 1950s American Home, Shire, 2013; Kathryn Ferry, The 1950s Kitchen, Shire, 2011.

NOA NOA

Hal Boyle, “Big City Cocktail Party Great Place for Study of Animal Life!”, Moberly Monitor-Index, 26 September 1953.

Анализ Леса Бакстера и музыкальных трендов: Philip Hayward, Widening the Horizon: Exoticism in Post-War Popular Music, John Libbey Publishing, 1997.

Об этикете коктейльных вечеринок: Joseph Russell Lynes, A Surfeit of Honey: On Contemporary American Manners and Customs, Harper, 1957.

Paul Gauguin, Noa Noa: The Tahitian Journal, trans. O.F. Theis, Nicholas L. Brown, 1919.

Helen Rubinstein advertisement for Noa Noa, featured in Vogue, American edition, 15 November 1954.

June Owen, “New Party Service Features Everything That’s Hawaiian, New York Times, 9 June 1955.

WHITE FIRE

Об истории британского общества в 1950-х годах: David Kynaston, Family Britain, 1951—57 (Tales of a New Jerusalem), Bloomsbury, 2010; Virginia Nicholson, Perfect Wives in Ideal Homes: The Story of Women in the 1950s, Viking, 2015.

PINO SYLVESTRE

Об увеличении количества автомобилей в Британии: http://www.vads.ac.uk/learning/designingbritain/html/crd_cultrev.html, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

Об истории Юлиуса Саманна: Hilary Greenbaum and Dana Rubinstein, “Who Made Those Little Trees Air Fresheners?”, New York Times Magazine, 2 March 2012.

Об исках компании Car-Freshner в отношении конкурентов: http://www.worldipreview.com/article/norway-court-rules-in-air-freshener-case, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

John Cheever, «The Chimera», The New Yorker, 1 July 1961.

DIORISSIMO

«Vogue’s Perfume Coloring Book», Vogue, American edition, 15 November 1962.

George Gobel, “How to Take Command at the Perfume Counter”, Vogue, American edition, December 1957.

Советы мужьям при покупке парфюма: «Perfume Investment Guide for Men», Vogue, American edition, December 1958.

О жизни Кристиана Диора: Marie France Pochna, Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New, Arcade Publishing, 1996.

HYPNOTIQUE

Rona Jaffe, The Best of Everything, Simon & Schuster, 1958.

Catherine Finerty, “Different Women After Five. Fragrance Is What They Remember You By”, Charm, October 1954.

Helen Gurley Brown, Sex and the Single Girl, B. Geis Associates, 1962.

Max Factor advertisement for Hypnotique, c. 1960, at: http://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Max-Factor/Hypnotique, посещение 13 июля 2015 г.

Max Factor advertisement for Hypnotique, featured in The Raleigh Register, 3 November 1958.

О феномене Брайди Мерфи: Herbert Brean, “Bridey Murphy Puts Nation in a Hypnotizzy”, LIFE, 19 March 1956.

TABAC ORIGINAL

Об искусстве и условностях приключенческих журналов: Max Allan Collins et al., Mens Adventure Magazines in Postwar America: The Rich Oberg Collection, Taschen, 2008; Adam Parfrey, Its a Mans World: Mens Adventure Magazines – The Postwar Pulps, Feral House, 2002.

Более подробно о мужественности: David M. Earle, All Man!: Hemingway, 1950s Mens Magazines, and the Masculine Persona, Kent State University Press, 2009.

Clint Dunathan, «Good Evening», The Escanaba Daily Press, 11 April 1949.

C. Patrick Thompson, «The Perfumed Age», Britannia and Eve, March 1949.

Свингующие шестидесятые: 1960–1969

Boyreau, Jacques, The Male Mystique: Mens Magazine Ads of the 1960s and 70s, Chronicle Books, 2004.

Cracknell, Andrew, The Real Mad Men: The Renegades of Madison Avenue and the Golden Age of Advertising, Running Press, 2012.

Evans, Paul, The 1960s Home, Shire Publishing, 2010.

Forbes, Evelyn, Hairdressing and Beauty as a Career, B.T. Batsford, 1961.

Holdeman, Angie, “Its a Mans, Mans, Mans World: Popular Figures and Masculine Identities in 1960s America, California State University, 2007.

Miles, Barry: London Calling: A Countercultural History of London Since 1945, Atlantic Books, 2010.

Ogilvy, David, Confessions of an Advertising Man, Mayflower Books, 1966.

Caron advertisement for Fleurs de Rocaille, 1963, at: http://file.vintageadbrowser.com/6r3ishbrn9ii80.jpg/, посещение 19 мая 2015 г.

Coty advertisement for Emeraude, 1964, at: http://file.vintageadbrowser.com/udosht2mo67au5.jpg/, посещение 19 мая 2015 г.

Century Creations advertisement for Centaur Cologne, 1967, at: http://vintage-ads.livejournal.com/3698754.html, посещение 13 июля 2015 г.

BAL VERSAILLES

О том, что Майкл Джексон предположительно использовал этот аромат: http://www.jeandesprez.com/balaversaillesexclusive.html, посещение 3 мая 2015 г.

BRUT

Thomas Browne, Christian Morals – With the Life of the Author, Read Books, 2008.

Faberg advertisement for Brut, 1960s, at: http://brutaftershave.blogspot.co.uk, посещение 13 мюля 2015 г.

Faberg advertisement for Brut 33, c. 1976, at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5tLfiu7an4, посещение 15 июля 2015 г.

Об использовании тестостерона в спорте: John M. Hoberman and Charles E. Yesalis, «The History of Synthetic Testosterone», Scientific American, February 1995.

О теории мозга и Движение за человеческий потенциал: http://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2014/07/you-alreadyuse-way-way-more-than-10-percent-of-your-brain/374520/, посещение 12 мая 2015 г.

ZEN

Alan Watts, The Book: On the Taboo Against Knowing Who You Are, Souvenir Press, 2009.

Regency Cosmetics advertisement for Jade East, featured in Ebony, June 1969.

«Watts on Zen», LIFE, 21 April 1961.

The corporate history of Shiseido, in: Geoffrey Jones, Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry, Oxford University Press, 2011.

PRETTY PEACH

Об игрушках середины двадцатого века Stephen Kline, Out of the Garden: Toys, TV, and Childrens Culture in the Age of Marketing, Verso Books, 1995; M.G. Lord, Forever Barbie: The Unauthorized Biography of a Real Doll, William Morrow, 1994.

OH! DE LONDON

О Лондоне 1960-х годов: David Johnson and Roger Dunkley, Gear Guide, 1967: Hip-Pocket Guide to Britains Swinging Carnaby Street Fashion Scene, Atlas, 1967; Rainer etzger, London in the Sixties, Thames & Hudson, 2012.

Yardley advertisement for Oh! de London, 1960s, at: http://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Yardley/Oh_de_London, посещение 13 июля 2015 г

EAU SAUVAGE

Реклама Eau Sauvage: http://www.hprints.com/search/Eau-Sauvage-Christian-Dior/, посещение 12 мая 2015 г..

О стиле жизни холостяков в послевоенной Америке: Elizabeth Fraterrigo, «Playboy» and the Making of the Good Life in Modern America, Oxford University Press, 2009; Bill Osgerby, Playboys in Paradise: Masculinity, Youth and Leisure-Style in Modern America, Bloomsbury Academic, 2001.

О ванных комнатах и уходе за собой: David Grayson, “The Man in his Bath”, Playboy, July 1957.

HAI KARATE

Chas. Prizer & Co. advertisement for Hai Karate, featured in LIFE, 6 October 1967.

PATCHOULI OIL

Jenny Diski, The Sixties, Profile Books, 2010.

Annie Gottlieb, Do You Believe in Magic?: The Second Coming of the 60s Generation, Times Books, 1987.

О путешествиях в Индию в 1960-х годах: Rory MacLean, Magic Bus: On the Hippie Trail from Istanbul to India, Penguin, 2008.

Advice Bureau about being refused service…’: «The Last Word on… Aromatic Males», New Scientist, 1 May 1974.

CALANDRE

О моде Пако Рабанна: Jean Clemmer and Paco Rabanne, Nues, ditions Pierre Belfond, 1969.

О создании аромата Calandre: Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, Michael Edwards & Co., 1996.

Зажигательные семидесятые: 1970–1979

Dirix, Emmanuelle, 1970s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook, Goodman-Fiell, 2014.

Kaufman, Will, American Culture in the 1970s, Edinburgh University Press, 2009.

Sandbrook, Dominic, State of Emergency: The Way We Were: Britain, 1970–1974, Penguin, 2011.

Sandbrook, Dominic, Seasons in the Sun: The Battle for Britain, 1974–1979, Penguin, 2013.

Schulman, Bruce J., The Seventies: The Great Shift in American Culture, Society, and Politics, Da Capo Press, 2001.

Shepherd, Janet, and Shepherd, John, 1970s Britain, Shire Publications, 2012.

О голливудских блокбастерах: Tom Shone, Blockbuster: How the Jaws and Jedi Generation Turned Hollywood into a Boom-Town, Simon & Schuster, 2004.

О бренде Boots на британском рынке красоты: Geoffrey Jones, Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry, Oxford University Press, 2010.

О попытке движения за освобождение женщин самостоятельно создать аромат по рецепту: Kay Marsh, “The Scent-agon Papers”, The Daily Herald, 18 August 1971.

RIVE GAUCHE

О меняющейся роли женщины на телевидении и в рекламе: Sherrie A. Inness (ed.), Disco Divas: Women and Popular Culture in the 1970s, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003.

AROMATICS ELIXIR

«Scent with Intent», Vogue, American edition, December 1971.

О популяризации ароматерапии в Британии: J. Bensouilah, “The History and Development of Modern-British Aromatherapy”, The International Journal of Aromatherapy, Volume 15, Issue 3, 2005; Robert Tisserand, The Art of Aromatherapy, C.W. Daniel Co., 1977.

№ 19

Turin, Luca, and Sanchez, Tania, Perfumes: The A – Z Guide, Profile, 2008.

MUSK OIL

О балладах и музыке 1970-х годов: Mitchell Morris, The Persistence of Sentiment: Display and Feeling in Popular Music of the 1970s, University of California Press, 2013.

Жизнь Барри Шиппа: http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1999–09–08/news/9909080032_1_mr-shipp-fragrance-sold/, посещение 12 мая 2015 г.

Реклама Musk Oil для Jvan в: Ebony, December 1975.

DIORELLA

О влиянии бутика Biba: Barbara Hulanicki, From A to BIBA, Hutchinson & Co., 1983; Barbara Hulanicki, The Biba Years: 1963–1975, V&A Publishing, 2014.

«Fall Fashions in Fragrance», Vogue, American edition, September 1973.

CHARLIE

Andrew P. Tobias, Fire and Ice: The Story of Charles Revson, the Man Who Built the Revlon Empire, William Morrow & Co., 1976.

Revlon advertisement for Fire and Ice lipstick, featured in LIFE, 10 November 1952.

Revlon advertisement for Charlie, featured in Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, 26 March 1973.

О влиянии культуры диско: Alan Jones and Jussi Kantonen, Saturday Night Forever: The Story of Disco, Mainstream Publishing, 1999; Peter Shapiro, Turn the Beat Around: The Rise and Fall of Disco, Faber & Faber, 2009.

BABE

О рынке молодежных товаров в 1970-х годах: Patrick E. Jamieson and Daniel Romer (eds), The Changing Portrayal of Adolescents in the Media Since 1950, Oxford University Press, 2008.

Faberg advertisement for Babe, 1977, at: https://www. youtube.com/watch?rqQICIChgA, accessed 13 July 2015.

OPIUM

О противоречивой рекламной кампании для Opium с участием Софи Даль: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/1077165.stm/, посещение 12 мая 2015 г.

О культуре потребления в 1970-х годах: Sam Binkley, Getting Loose: Lifestyle Consumption in the 1970s, Duke University Press, 2007.

О стиле Yves Saint Laurent: Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon, Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s, Yale University Press, 2015.

О влиянии и культуре «Студии-54»: Anthony Haden-Guest, The Last Party: Studio 54, Disco, and the Culture of the Night, William Morrow, 1997.

О декаде «я»: Tom Wolfe, “The “Me” Decade and the Third Great Awakening”, New York Magazine, 23 August 1976.

MAGIE NOIRE

Henry Post, «Going Baroque», New York Magazine, 29 June 1981.

On hedonism and party culture of the 1970s, see: Robert Hofler, Party

Animals: A Hollywood Tale of Sex, Drugs, and Rock nRoll Starring the Fabulous Allan Carr, Da Capo Press, 2010.

Эгоистичные восьмидесятые: 1980–1989

Turner, Alwyn W., Rejoice! Rejoice!: Britain in the 1980s, Aurum Press, 2010.

Rose, George, Hollywood, Beverly Hills, and Other Perversities: Pop Culture of the 1970s and 1980s, Ten Speed Press, 2008.

Evans, Peter William, and Deleyto, Celestino, Terms of Endearment: Hollywood Romantic Comedy of the 80s and 90s, Edinburgh University Press, 1990.

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